Sunday, February 16, 2020

Carnival Conquest: Chef's Table

During a seven night sailing of the Carnival Conquest out of Miami, my wife and I decided to sign up for the Chef's Table experience.  This is an event that Carnival holds on most of their sailings of seven nights or longer.    We had tried it about ten years ago on Carnival Legend so it was time to see what changed Carnival had made to what we felt was a great event.    The cost varies by ship.  We paid $75 per person plus a mandatory 18 percent gratuity for a total of $177.  This was an eleven course meal which included wine.

Our evening started by meeting in the atrium of the ship.  Here we were greeted with a glass of champagne and one of the wait staff.  The Chef De Cuisine soon met us and we had a toast before we we led back to the galley for more champagne and for three appetizers.   Unfortunately, no pictures are allowed in the galley, most likely for safety and security reasons.  We were gathered around one of the prep tables in  the middle of the galley.  A flurry of activity was happening all around us.  Salad prep to my right.  Appetizer plating right in front of us.  But a very quiet environment.  No one was barking our orders.

The first appetizer was a  very thin slice of nutty parmesan romano cheese along with marinated olives.  This was a great palate awakener - and not because of the cheese.  The chef explained that the olives had been marinated on the ship.  I expected them to had traditional flavors you would find in a mediterranean olive.  Olive oil.  Rosemary.  Oregano.  Pepper flakes.  While some of those were there, these olives had a very interesting and welcome ingredient:  Orange zest.   I had never heard of olives marinated this way but it made so much sense when you tasted it.  It paired so well with the peppery olive oil and added a much needed brightness.  So inventive.  I think I will be trying this at home.

The next appetizer was a bold one, something that many people would never ever order:  goose liver pate served on a small spoon.  I am a huge fan of liver and will almost always order foie gras if I see it on a menu.    When I traveled to New York for work I would go to the Stage Deli and only order a nice plate of chopped liver.  That with some fresh rye bread and thin sliced onions is heavenly!!   For this preparation, the chef smartly was able to eliminate the sometimes gamey flavor liver can have.   He was able to bring out the nuttiness and make it so smooth so that everyone's first instinct was we were tasting peanut butter.  It certainly changed some people's mind about whether they liked liver.

The last galley appetizer was a super bite size shrimp Po'Boy.  They must have had these rolls specially made onboard since they were only about an inch long, perfect for the fried shrimp and remoulade.  While the bread could have been more toasted, the flavor of the shrimp paired well with the sauce.

After a short galley tour we were led to a private dining room where we would have our additional courses.  Each person received a personalized menu.

Carnival Conquest Chef's Table Menu

A text version of the menu which is easier to read.

Spring Peas & Matcha Soup
condiments

Berkshire Pork Belly, Shrimps
veil of yuzu mustard, crustacean essence

Slow Cooked Crispy Lamb
roasted beet & port jus

Olive Oil Poached Seabass
asparagus & white miso

Quail, Wild Mushrooms and Carnaroli
parmesan, pepper threads, roasted onion jus

New York Prime Strip, Crushed Green Apples
light cheese broth

Citrus Cream
lime snow, elderflower caviar

Chocolate Hazelnut
basil moss, cocoa logs, chocolate soil

We started with a bread service.  We were served the most pillowy roll completely covered in shredded parmesan cheese.  It was served with a small edible flower, unsalted butter with truffle (almost a good as Tasmanian butter) and honey.  I didn't want to have too much of this since I knew how many courses had yet to come.  But how can one resist?  It was interesting to pair all the flavors.  I liked the sweet honey combined with the salty parmesan the best.


 First course was a Spring Pea and Match Soup.  This was served in a way that you made your own broth strength with the powdered matcha.  What is matcha?  I had never heard of it before this meal so was glad the chef explained it. It is a type of green tea and in this preparation was in super fine powder form.  They had also made a stirrer which was a celery stalk attached to a pineapple shell topped with a cherry tomato.



The idea was to take a as much or as little of the matcha and put it into your bowl.  The chef recommended to start with a small amount.  I tried it by itself and it had a mild earthy flavor - alot like green tea (not surprisingly).  This was about a half teaspoon of the matcha.

Then the wait staff came along with a separate pitched of the soup and you used the stirrer.  It was so interesting how you could infuse the soup with the essence of the celery tops.  The soup had a great fresh pea flavor and the matcha gave it a richness that most pea soups like this are missing.  A very nice start to what would be coming.


Next course was Berkshire Pork Belly. 


Pork belly is one of those dishes that really needs attention to detail.  I have found too often that it appears on a menu for pure "wow" factor, but the result on your plate is less than a wow.  Usually the issue is the pork has not been rendered enough, leaving the diner an unpleasant plate of uncooked fat.  Not in this case.  The pork was properly cooked to be slightly crispy but still moist and had a great pork flavor.  And the use of the yuzu to make a mustard was a perfect compliment.  If you have no heard of yuzu, it looks like a lemon but has more of an orange and grapefruit flavor.  Perfect contrast for a dish where you want to cut against the richness of the fattiness.  The "dome" on top of the pork was pureed and dehydrated cantaloupe molded into the triangle shape.  It had the texture of beef jerky.  It was creative but really didn't belong on the dish.  The same was true with the shrimp and the crustacean essence, which was really just a lobster and shrimp stock made from shells.  Tasty by itself, and perhaps great in another dish, but didn't go with the other flavors in the dish.

Next course was Crispy Lamb with Roasted Beets.



The lamb was braised and very tender, served on a flavorful au jus.  It was topped with a crispy whole grain cracker which had dollops of creme fraiche and mango.  The most interesting part of the dish was the roasted beet on the left in the picture below.  The beet had been crusted in dehydrated olives and then deep fried.  I had never seen olives used as a breading before.  It was a good contrast to the sweetness of the red beet.  I think it would have been a much more interesting dish had the chef decided to have this be a vegan course, where only beets and other complimenting items were paired together.  While the lamb was good, it's richness was a bit too much after just having the pork belly. 

Next course was Sea Bass.

This was one of the best dishes I have had in my life!! It was poached sea bass which had been cooked perfectly. Firm flesh but still moist inside. And it came with lots of complimentary side items. Where to start? How about the passion fruit "caviar" which was on top, and had just started to melt as the plate was set in front of you. Or the olive oil dust where you could drag a morsel of fish through it to provide a a floral nuance. Or the wonderfully crispy squid ink chip which you could break up into pieces like a tortilla chips and mix with the delicate white miso sauce. Everything on this plate had a purpose which is what made it so wonderful. Fish, cooked simply, and only partnered with sides that complimented, and in some cases deliciously contrasted with that succulent seafood.


The next course was Quail with Wild Mushrooms.  When the plate first arrived, I think we all exclaimed "Where's The Quail"?  I think the thin rolls of parmesan and pepper threads were to be a reminder of the very first course we had in the galley. The wild mushrooms were prepared in what I would call a fricassee style.  Creamy and meaty.  But where was the quail?


Almost on queue, the chef came around and plated each piece of quail on our plates. right on top of the mushrooms.  It was topped with roasted onion jus which had a sweet flavor, almost like beets.    The quail was well seasoned and moist with a crispy skin.  The onion jus was a nice compliment to the mushrooms.



The last savory course was New York Strip,  The chef came out with a large smoked dome!!   What was inside?  


It was our grilled strip steak which had been smoked in that dome!!    In addition to the side of asparagus was a very unusual spoonful of crushed green apple which had a cheese broth on top.  The flavor profile matched since cheese and apples are a favorite combination of mine.  Just an odd side dish and I am not sure it married well with the steak.     The steak itself was okay but had some large part of fat which hadn't been cooked.  Since these had been sliced to order, I would have expected them to be trimmed a bit more since the far was appealing to look at or taste.   This was my least favorite course.


Now it was time for dessert!!  First up was a Citrus Creme.  This was perhaps better described as a key lime tart  - without the tart.  Tart citrus flavor, further complimented by the lime snow which took lime juice and used molecular gastronomy to create the magical dust.  And a repeat of the "caviar" from the sea bass course, except this time it was elderflower which had a nice tartness.  For anyone (like me) that doesn't like overly sweet desserts, this would be at the top of their list for favorite desserts.


Our last course was a Chocolate Hazelnut cake.    Hazelnut it not one of my favorite flavors since I find it usually overpowers other flavors in a dessert.  To the pastry chef's credit, they managed to keep it as a background flavor and the forward flavor was still the chocolate.  The basil moss was a most interesting contrast to the sweetness of the chocolate.  The chocolate "logs" were drizzled chocolate that had been refrigerated.   They were crunchy so was a nice contrast to the soft texture of the cake.  I wish the dessert had a small amount of plain old vanilla ice cream.  There was so much chocolate flavor that your palate needed a break after a couple of bites.  Perhaps the basil moss was meant for that purpose but it didn't work for me.  Sometimes all you need is some ice cream.



So after eleven courses and almost four hours, our Chef's Table experience had ended.  Some wonderful dishes.  I was very impressed with the whole meal and how the chef and his team catered to us. 

Favorite course:  Olive Oil Poached Sea Bass - Simply one of the best dishes I have ever eaten.

Favorite amuse bouche:  Has to be the olives since they surprised me with the addition of orange zest

Favorite dessert:  Really unfair since there were only two but hands down it was the Citrus Creme.

Most disappointing dish:  New York Strip - It was sad to see what appeared to be a good cut of meat wasted.

Since Carnival keeps the same Chef's Table menu for at least eighteen months, it may be awhile before I try this again.  I will keep an eye out for when it changes to see if it looks interesting.

Monday, February 10, 2020

QUICK BITE: Lobster BLT

Carnival Conquest, like many of the ships in the fleet has an a la carte food venue called Seafood Shack.  They offer many types of seafood including fried clams and fish to steamed lobster and oysters on the half shell.  They also offer a Lobster BLT which was my lunch today. They charge $12 plus an 18 percent gratuity.  The sandwich had large chunks of tail meat which I could tell was definitely cold water lobster.  Nicely toasted bread, fresh crispy lettuce and tomato along with some crunchy and salty bacon.  I liked therr was not too much mayonnaise.  Just enough to add some acidty and creaminess.  It was served with hot crinkle cut fries that had been dusted with Old Bay Seasoning. Such a smart decision to season that way since it really complimented the lobster in the BLT.   I think $12 is a little too high for this sandwich.  I think $8 would be more appropriate.  I would recommend it and order again.  Unfortunately there are so many other good things to try on the ship that I think I will run out of time.  It is a rough problem to have.  


#CarnivalConquest #CruiseFood #BLT #Lobster

QUICK BITE: Another Favorite Dish

I had one of the best dishes in my life last night at the Chef's Table!!  I will be posting more about the whole meal in another blog entry but will share this fabulous dish with you for now. It was poached sea bass which had been cooked perfectly.  Firm flesh but still moist inside.  And it came with lots of complimentary side items.  Where to start?  How about the passion fruit "caviar" which was on top, and had just started to melt as the plate was set in front of you.  Or the olive oil dust where you could drag a morsel of fish through it to provide a a floral nuance.  Or the wonderfully crispy squid ink chip which you could break up into pieces like a tortilla chips and mix with the delicate white miso sauce.  Everything on this plate had a purpose which is what made it so wonderful.  Fish, cooked simply, and only partnered with sides that complimented, and in some cases deliciously contrasted with that succulent seafood.  


#CarnivalConquest #ChefsTable #CruiseFood 

Sunday, February 9, 2020

Pizza at Sea


Pizza is a great afternoon snack on a sea day while on a cruise ship.   This is from Pizza Pirate in Carnival Conquest.   Thin crust without being soggy, simple light marinara sauce and enough pepporini so there is something in each bite. 



Sunday Brunch at Sea

Had a nice brunch in Monet dining room.  Fried chicken with watermelon kimchi, maple syrup and southern gravy as dipping sides. I didn't expect it to be more like chicken wings.  They were well fried and each sauce added a different element (sweet, savory and spicy). Strangely I detected no watermelon in the kimchi also it was excellent.   The brunch pasta (not pictured) was also very good.  Had a Mediterranean flavor with spinach and ham in a butter sauce.  We are doing Chef's Table tonight so will share some pictures from that later.  

Monday, January 20, 2020

QUICK BITE: Which Whopper Wins?

Although the Impossible Whopper has been available at Burger King for quite some time, I finally had the chance to try it and compare to the original Whopper.  If you are not familiar, the Impossible Burger is a plant-based protein from the Impossible Company made to taste, and some would say look like meat.  Sounds like a contradiction.  Let's find out.  For my review I got both the Impossible Whopper and the original Whopper. 

What do they look like?  First the packaging.


Beyond the patty, each burger comes with the same ingredients a Whopper has always had.    From Burger King's website:

Our WHOPPER® Sandwich is a ¼ lb* of savory flame-grilled beef topped with juicy tomatoes, fresh lettuce, creamy mayonnaise, ketchup, crunchy pickles, and sliced white onions on a soft sesame seed bun.

First a look at the Impossible Whopper. 


And what it looks like under the hood.  I was impressed that the tomatoes were good thick slices and there was a good amount of crunchy iceberg lettuce.  The thin sliced onions were also crispy



And now the original Whopper.



Same setup as the Impossible.  The patty is noticeably thinner.


So how did they taste?  The Impossible Whopper had a very meaty flavor and was very moist.  It was complemented well by the crunchy lettuce and thick sliced tomato which gave it from freshness. Perhaps a nod to when the "burger" was a plant.  I could have done without the ketchup on the Impossible Whopper.  It really added nothing to the party.  But the pickles had a good amount of vinegar to balance the savory note from the patty.  Absent was any note of flame-grilled flavor which is one of Burger King's signatures.

While the original Whopper had a subtle, pleasant flame-grilled flavor, it was significantly thinner and much drier than the Impossible burger. and it really needed that ketchup to help.

So which one wins?  For me, it is the Impossible Whopper in a landslide.  It really tasted more like meat to me which is what you look for in a burger.  This is most likely because it was a thicker patty and almost juicy.  If you are looking for a healthier option for a burger, I don't think that Impossible is truly healthier.  Based on their website, the BK Impossible Whopper has 630 calories compared to 660 for the original Whopper.  Both burgers have a lot of fat (Impossible 34g vs 40g for original) although Impossible has zero trans fat.    The Impossible also has 100 more mg of sodium.  And you may have seen the controversy about the Impossible Whopper not being vegan.  To Burger King's defense, they never claimed it was although I can see why some consumers may have assumed it would be.  It is cooked in the same broiler as regular meat patties so will certainly have been in contact with meat even if just from close contact.  I read on BK's website that you can ask that it been cooked separately so that it would be vegan.

Wednesday, January 1, 2020

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!!

I took some time off the past week to spend time away from this blog.  But doesn't mean there wasn't new restaurants and bites to sample.  Here are some of the things I tried this past week.

Rackz BBQ is located in Carmel Indiana.  In my unscientific analysis, it seems like central Indiana has more BBQ restaurant than any other place I have been.  I am sure there are other places in the United States where there are more individual BBQ "joints" - such as North Carolina, Texas or Tennessee.  But Indiana has so many that are either local or national chains.  City BBQ.  Squealers.  Big Hoffa's.    While I don't think Rackz is a chain (yet), it certainly feeds the great interest in BBQ for the people that live in this area.

Rackz is a small location that has seating for about 50 people inside although they have an area outside with a few tables that would be great in milder weather.  The menu has all the typical meats you would expect featuring pulled pork, pulled chicken, brisket and ribs.  I started with an interesting appetizer of Loaded BBQ chips.


Loaded BBQ Chips at Rackz in Carmel Indiana





This was a plate of kettle fried potato chips, topped with a meat and sauce of your choice and then cheese sauce and jalapenos.  Onions were optional and I elected not to get them.  It was such a smart idea to have the potato chips since they were able to stay crisp through the last bite.  I find when tortilla chips are used, the corn doesn't hold up as well and you end up with soggy, limp vessels about halfway through.  You need a sturdy chip to hold up to these types of toppings and Rackz did it properly.  The pulled pork was moist and smoky.    The cheese sauce had enough of that gooiness you expect from "plastic cheese".  I got the mild sauce which was on the sweet side.  It was a good compliment to the spicy jalapenos.  I would have like a little grated cheese for some variety but that not a complaint.  This was a well composed shared appetizer - which really could be a meal.

Next up was a brisket sandwich.  One of my favorite bites from any BBQ restaurant is the burnt ends.  These are the end pieces of the brisket which have had the most exposure to the heat and smoke.  They end up being succulent nuggets or umame with a very satisfying chew.  For my sandwich, it was made up completely with burnt ends creating a flavor bomb of goodness!!  It came with your choice of sauce and I went with the spicy sauce.  In hindsight, especially if I had known they would use burnt ends, I would have asked for no sauce.  The spicy sauce was really good, having a balance of heat (probably from habanero) and sweet, but it took away from the brisket flavor.  If (or when!!) I order this again, I will ask for no sauce.  As with most BBQ places, they have bottles of sauce at the table where you can add what you want.

My side was macaroni and cheese and for as good as the brisket was. the mac and cheese was a pedestrian effort.  Not terrible since the noodles were cooked properly and there was a mild cheese flavor.  I was hoping for something unique with a pop such as a sharp cheddar or maybe even a hint of horseradish to help complement the brisket.    Given that the brisket was so tasty, I could have been served shredded cardboard on the side and I wouldn't have complained.  At a BBQ restaurant you aren't going there for the side dishes.


Another place I tried was The Local which is located in Westfield Indiana.  The Local is a medium sized restaurant with a little more than a third of the space dedicated to a bar area with seating at the bar and several high tops.  That is divided from the remaining space which is table seating that can be configured into groups of four or more.  The menu is a lot of elevated pub food.



Our  table went with two shared appetizers.  First was the fried brussels sprouts.

I appreciated that the oil was hot enough to get most of the outer leafs crispy.  This helped keep the spicy miso sauce from making them too soggy.  I could have used a bit more spice. but I understand they want to keep the seasoning on the milder side to suit everyone's taste.  Next up was a soft bavarian pretzel.


I didn't try this, but my tablemates said this was everything you would expect in a soft pretzel.  Pillowy inside with a crisp, buttery crust that had just enough salt.    It was served with a yellow hot dog mustard.  I was surprised the menu didn't offer additional dips.  A sharp cheddar sauce or a horseradish ranch would seem to be perfect complements.

For my entrees I went with two pub staples.  If you have read my other blogs, you know my one test of a place serving pub food is to try their basic burger.  If a place can make a decent burger, which is one of the simplest dishes, then the rest of their food shows promise.  So I ordered their Plane Jane burger, medium rare, with American Cheese. Tater tots on the side.  Fries were also an option.


While it was not the best burger I have ever had, it was cooked well.  The menu stated the meat was aged 17 days so I expected there to be some additional beefiness which usually comes with aged beef.  That wasn't present.   It was a juicy, seasoned patty that was cooked to my order.  Very tasty and served with fresh tomato and lettuce.  I wish the lettuce had been on the bottom bun since putting it on top really serves no purpose at all.  Every burger needs something on the bottom bun to keep it from getting soggy.  This can be a oil based spread, such as mayo or aoloi.  Or what works really well is layer of hardy, crispy greens.  After a few bites, the bottom bun had lost all it's integrity.  It is such a simple thing to change and I wonder why more restaurants don't do it.  Maybe they think it looks better to have lettuce it on top.  While I agree that some of us eat with our eyes, that shouldn't supersede the structure of a simple cheeseburger!!

My pallet is also always attracted to chicken wings.  If a place has them on the menu, I am likely going to try them.  I always like to get them on the bone when available.  I know other only like "boneless" wings which aren't wings at all, just chicken pieces given that name.    What do you prefer?  Let me know in the comments.

While there are many places  that will serve you wings tossed in upwards of twenty different sauces, I prefer either a dry rubbed wing or no sauce at all on the wing.  One of the best parts of fried chicken is the crispiness.  You spend the 10 - 12 minutes frying the chicken to a perfect crisp and then add some sauce which adds flavor, but soon reduces that crispness to nothing but sogginess.  I will always try to order the sauce on the side so I can dip into it and get the right amount.  Here at The Local, they had dry rub wings and I got their homemade buttermilk dressing (essentially a ranch) on the side.


The wings were served hot and crispy.  The rub had a great taste which was very much like Lawry's seasoning salt bumped up to a six on the spiciness scale of 1 to 10.  I detected some Cajun notes as well.  If the spice was too much, it was easily cooled down with the creamy buttermilk dressing.

Another place I tried was Grindstone also in Westfield Indiana.  Grindstone is part of a larger chain of restaurants in Indianapolis.  This location is setup inside to look like an old mill.  They serve family friendly favorites as well as having some more adventurous items on the menu.    I tried the avocado BLT and some some wings!!



The  BLT came on toasted sourdough which was a good choice given all the ingredients awaiting inside.  I expected the avocado to be sliced, but instead it was essentially a guacamole that had been seasoned with some garlic.  In addition it came with what was called a smoked garlic aioli.  I didn't detect any smoky flavor in that spread and the garlic in it didn't compliment the garlic already in the avocado spread.  It was simply too much garlic which overpowered the whole sandwich. 
Avocado BLT at Grindstone on the Monon in Westfield Indiana

I had white cheddar mac and cheese on the side which was very creamy and reminded me of a great bechamel.  Well cooked noodles and the cheese sauce had a slight bite to it.  It would have been a nice addition for some crispy panko on the top for contrast. 


And the wings!!!  In this case, I went with the tangy peach BBQ sauce.  The sauce had a little heat but mostly sweet.    I appreciated  that they didn't drown the wings in the sauce so they still had some crispness.  And they were topped with a sort of slaw that also added some texture.  Overall a very good wing.

I hope you all had a Happy New Year and a great start to 2020!!  Here we go into another decade.  What food innovations and creations await us?